The only good waves on the west coast
were when the hurricanes were coming
I used the sit on the shore
and watch him paddle out into the ocean on his board
until he was only a dot on the horizon
The sugarcubes were melting on our tongues
And the strange waves became stranger
like great ocean beasts rising and falling
writhing and frothing
I watched him catch one after the other
until one caught him
He was under for some time
The sea monsters continued to wrestle
and hold him down
A bitter coldness settled in my chest
I was sick with satisfaction
and my secret desire
But then he rose from the waves
laughing and asking if I had been afraid
But there had been no fear
only hope
and now my heart held only
disappointment.